RSS Feed

Monthly Archives: March 2012

ommpgreenpage

So with outdoor grows coming up i thought this would be some great info for folks.

Making Your Own Outdoor Green House…

Required Materials List

Note: All wood should be green, treated wood to resist rot. (Or you can spend more money and buy a rot resistant type of lumber such as cedar.)

  • (4) 2×6 – 16’
  • (2) 2×6 – 12’
  • (14) 2×4 – 12’
  • (19) ¾” x 20’white pvc pipe
  • (9) 10mm x 10’ rebar
  • (1) 20’x50’ roll of 6mm plastic
  • (1) Bundle of 50 4’ wood lathe (or optional staples)
  • Zip ties
  • Nails or screws
  • Metal banding
  • Door hinges and handles

Step 1 – Laying Out the Frame

Using the 2x6s, lay out and put together your 12’x32’ frame. (You can join the two 16’ pieces with a 2’ piece of 2×4.)

Ensure that the frame is square by measuring diagonally across it. You can temporarily keep the frame…

View original post 645 more words

~Using worm castings~

~Using worm castings~

How to use worm castings in a soil mix?

Worm castings can be used in a multitude of ways – mixed into a soil mix, a soilless mix, or as a tea or slurry.

Usually worm castings is thought of as an additive. Recommendations vary wildly, but I would recommend adding one tenth to one fifth in any organic mix (10-20%).

Top dressing with worm castings would work well, too, especially with indoor containers. Making a worm castings tea by steeping the castings in clean well aerated water makes for a life giving plant-nutrient. I recommend filtering worm tea before use and returning the dregs into the worm bin after a couple of rounds.

One can use plain worm castings as a growing medium, and in my experience it works very well. But usually finished worm castings tends to be mud-like in consistency, and needs something to aerate and lighten up the texture. Perlite and expanded clay work very well for this. 50% of expanded clay (multiple size) and 50% worm castings makes for a nice quick-n-dirty primo soil(less) mix.

The Classic Shabang Mix

The mix that I recommend is basically nothing but castings and drainage. I used to cut it with all sorts of things, including soilless peat-based mixes like pro-mix.. but then you’re introducing a source for pH problems– especially when others try and duplicate it but can’t find the right brands then substitute with a peat-mix that is too acidic. So down to the bare basics of a mix:

40% castings
30% perlite
30% vermiculite

Quoted from GrowFAQ #781 here: 781.htm

102% Hyper Veg Mix by Aallonharja

* 25% coco peat
* 25% expanded clay
* 50% worm casting
* 2% alfalfa meal pellets
* 1/4 tablespoon of dolomite lime per liter (1 per gal)
* lemon juice (or 8% citric acid solution)
* seaweed extract according to taste
* silicon nutrient additive

Note:

– This is a guideline, not a recipe. Know your ingredients!

– If things get too sticky, muddy or water retaining with the worm castings, add more coco peat, peat, perlite or expanded clay.

– The stretching due to alfalfa can last up to 5 or more weeks.

– For alfalfa meal pellets 2% is a careful estimate. More can be used if the plants can take it.

– This mix should last about 4 weeks, ie. supply the plant with nutrients during the vegetative period, PK and N+Mg+Ca additive may be needed in bloom.

Meek Flowering Mix

* Worm castings, from bin fed with fruit and vegetables and peels (High K, Medium P)
* Optionally in the first 4 weeks of flowering, add as needed:
Pinch of dolomite lime or epsom salts
Pinch of gypsym
Pinch(es) of clean, pure wood ash

Mix in a bucket of water, and filter solids. Water during flowering.

Note:

– This is a guideline, not a recipe. Know your ingredients!

– Yields very vivid aromatic tones

– Basically a high K + P + Mg + Ca + S solution – all thats needed in bloom.

– N supplementation may also be necessary.

Oh also, you could talk a bit about Casting Tea aswell.

Well I’ve usually simply spooned some more or less finished castings into a cheapo nylon stocking and dumped that in a bucket and a reservoir.

A surefire way would be using 100% finished worm castings with a high quality filter material, and place that in a bucket with water, aerate the water for 48 hours, and then use that water for watering, provided it didnt contain visible pests and didnt smell like rotten fish (aerobic teas shouldnt smell bad in the first place).

 
Via google, and wekipedia

Worm Farming Reference Data

~Worm Farming Reference Data~ NPK Nutrient values for some common worm foods High N: Blood Meal (NPK 13-1-0) Coffee grounds (NPK 1,99-0,36-0,67) Felt (NPK 14-0-0) Hair (NPK 14-0-0) Tea grounds (NPK 4,15-0,62-0,4) Worm Meal (dried & ground worms) NPK 10-1-1 Greens, leaves & meals, alfalfa, stinging nettle High P: Bone Meal generic NPK 4-21-0,2 * steamed NPK 13-15-13 * burned NPK 0-34,7-0 Shrimp Waste NPK 2,87-9,95-0 Tea Leaves ash NPK 0-1,66-0,4 Wheat bran NPK 2,65-2,9-1,6 Oats, Chicken Manure High K: Banana skin NPK 0-3,08-11,74 Molasses NPK 0,7-0-5,32 Potato skin NPK 0-5,15-27,5 Wood Ash NPK 0-0,15-7,0 Wood ash (broadleaf) K 10% Wood ash (coniferous) K 6% Alfalfa, ashes, potato wastes, peel & skin (-ashes, too) High Calcium: Poultry manure (0,5-0,7% dry), dolomite lime, egg shells, bone meal Note that its usually thought that worm castings is high in calcium (perhaps with the presumption that lime or eggshells are added during the process). High Iron: Stinging nettle (Also high N) High Magnesium: Dolomite lime, poultry manure, epsom salts Vermicomposting by Numbers Facts from a technical compost quide, section ‘Vermi-stabilization’ (of composted communal waste). (Komposti, WSOY 1984). They are talking about the red wriggler Eisenia Fetida: Optimum pH range 5-8. The worms die under pH 4,5 and over pH 9. Optimum Humidity 80-85%. Dissolved salt leves should not exceed 0,5 % (5000 ppm?). Ammoniumacetate is toxic to the worms when concentrations exceed 0,1% (1000ppm). Greatest growth rate in temperatures between 20 and 25 C degrees, greatest feeding rate in 15-20 C degrees. Temperatures above 37 C degrees cause worm deaths. Can adapt to live in temperatures close to 0 C degree. “Its been theorized that with optimum temperatures and sufficient food source the worms would achieve maturity in 5-9 weeks, meaning that a population of 100 worms could produce an offspring population of 250 000 worms in a year.” “..up to 20% of the waste materials weight can become wormbiomass .” (worm biomass is the worms themselves, not the worm castings) “The will never be a problem with overproduction of worm- biomass, as the worms can always be dried and ground to produce a plant fertilizer. The NPK value of the dried worms is approxemately 10-1-1. The worm-biomass also contains 0,8% sulphur, 0,6% calcium, 0,3% magnesium and minerals that benefit the growth of plants.” Worm Species Data Eisenia fetida (foetida)/Eisenia andrei Common names: redworm, tiger worm, manure worm Maximum reproduction under ideal condtions: 3.8 cocoons per adult per week 83.2% hatching success rate 3.3 hatchlings per cocoon Net reproduction of 10.4 young per adult per week Maximum growth rate under ideal conditions: 32-73 days to cocoon hatch 53-76 days to sexual maturity 85-149 days from egg to maturity Temperature requirements °C (°F): Minimum 3°C (38°F) Maximum 35°C (95°F) Ideal range 21-27°C (70-80°F) Eisenia hortensis (Dendrobaena veneta) Common names: Belgian nightcrawler, European nightcrawler Maximum growth rate under ideal conditions: 40-128 days to cocoon hatch 57-86 days to sexual maturity 97-214 days from egg to maturity Temperature requirements °C (°F): Minimum 3°C (38°F) Maximum 32°C (90°F) Ideal 15-21°C (60-70°F) Heat tolerance is dependant on moisture level. This worm is very tolerant of environmental fluctuation and handling, but has a slower reproductive rate and requires very high moisture levels, relative to other worm species. Other common composting worm species Bimastos tumidus – often found in compost piles, tolerates medium C:N ratios and cooler temperatures better than Eisenia foetida , multiplies rapidly in old straw and spoiled hay, hardy to Z-5 and will survive in ordinary soil conditions hence once established it would survive without extensive preparations. Earthworm Ecology and Biogeography in North America Eudrilus eugeniae: (African nightcrawler) do well but cannot withstand low temperatures.(composter or surface worker species) Lumbricus rubellus: (common redworm or red marsh worm), used in Cuba’s vermicomposting program, (composter or surface worker species), native to U.S. Lumbricus terrestris: nightcrawler, native to U.S. Not suitable for vermiculture. Perionyx excavatus: (Asian species) do well but cannot withstand low temperatures. (composter or surface worker species).

 

references Google, wikipedia

ommpgreenpage

Pot Pesto Pasta

As green as it gets!

Makes 2 cups of pot pesto, serves about 6 as an appetizer/small plate

¼ cup walnuts

4 cloves garlic, chopped

2 ½ cups fresh basil leaves, packed

½ teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¾ cup master recipe ganja oil (made with olive oil instead of butter)

½ cup grated parmesan

½ lb. of fusilli pasta, cooked according to package directions.

Place the walnuts and garlic in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process for 15 seconds. Add the basil leaves, salt, and pepper. With the processor running, slowly pour the ganja olive oil into the bowl through the feed tube and process until the pesto is thoroughly pureed. Add the parmesan and puree for a minute. Add pot pesto to a large bowl and pour hot pasta over. Toss to combine and serve hot…

View original post 17 more words

ommpgreenpage

D.I.Y.. Bubbleponics / DWC system out of house hold materials.

Materials Needed:

*Plastic Coffee Can w/Lid.

*Aquarium air pumpwith air hose and Air stone( the more bubbles the better)

*Empty Yogurt cup

*Lava Rock Or Aquarium gravel is it what ya got

*Something to Drill some holes

*A sharp Utility knife

Okay now that you have your materials gathered up lets start the process.

Step 1. Take your Coffee can and Lid clean them very well

Step 2. Take your coffee can lid and cut a hole just big enough for the yogurt cup to fit in the center flushly with the lid.

Step 3. Now drill asmall hole off to the side of the lid just big enough for the air tubing to fit through.

Step 4. Okay your done with the lid now for the yogurt cup this will act as your net pot so you will need…

View original post 192 more words